Vickery The Reserve Zander Kosi Block Eden Valley Riesling 2018
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Region
Clare Valley, SA
Variety
Riesling
Winery
Hesketh & Vickery Wines
Hesketh produce exceptional wines and their alternate varietals have caused quite a stir around WDHQ, leaving many a Tasting Panel member weak at the knees. They also co-own Vickery wines with John Vickery, the master and godfather of Australian Riesling. There aren’t too many staff orders that don’t feature a bottle or 3 of one of these wines.
A bit more on Hesketh...
The Hesketh family have a long association with the Lehmann dynasty. Robert Hesketh originally formed Masterson wines with Peter Lehmann in the late 70’s – which became Peter Lehmann Wines in 1982. [caption id="attachment_1886" align="aligncenter" width="200"]
Hesketh Small Parcels Bonvedro[/caption]
This company saved plenty of Barossa growers from going under during the vine pull scheme in the 80s. This work also saved a lot of priceless old Barossa vines from being pulled.
Today, Robert and Peter’s sons, Jonathon Hesketh and Phil Lehmann are Hesketh wines; Jonathon as owner, Phil as chief winemaker. They have Barossa vineyards and source fruit from elsewhere including the Coonawarra and Austria. Yep, for several years Hesketh released a stunning Austrian Grüner Veltliner. Ask us really nicely and we might find you a bottle or two of the brilliant 2008.
All of the alternative varietals released under the Hesketh ‘Small Parcels’ range are produced from Barossa Valley fruit but also offer an element of vinous ventriloquism too. The wines taste clearly of the Barossa dirt in which they are farmed, yet have the seemingly magic ability to evoke their homelands… the Negroamaro sees you at a long table, dining with family in the Northern Italian sun, the Temp takes you to an all night tapas bar in San Sebastian,
Riesling is a white grape variety which originated in the Rhine region of Germany. Riesling is an aromatic grape variety displaying flowery, almost perfumed, aromas as well as high acidity. It is used to make dry, semi-sweet, sweet and sparkling white wines. Riesling wines are usually varietally pure and are seldom oaked. As of 2004, Riesling was estimated to be the world's 20th most grown variety at 48,700 hectares (120,000 acres) with an increasing trend.
In terms of importance for quality wines, it is usually included in the "top three" white wine varieties together with Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Riesling is a variety which is highly "terroir-expressive", meaning that the character of Riesling wines is clearly influenced by the wine's place of origin.
In Australia
In 1838 William Macarthur planted Riesling vines near Penrith in New South Wales. Riesling was the most planted white grape in Australia until the early 1990s when Chardonnay greatly increased in popularity. Riesling still flourishes in the Clare Valley, in particular the areas of Watervale and around the Polish Hill River, and the cooler Eden Valley and High Eden regions. Riesling is also being grown with increasing popularity in the Western Australian regions Albany, Frankland River and Porongorup. The warmer Australian climate produces thicker skinned grapes, sometimes seven times the thickness of German grown grape. The grapes ripening in free drain soil composed of red soil over limestone and shale, producing a lean wine that as it matures produces toasty, honeycomb and lime aromas and flavours. It is common for Australian Rieslings to be fermented at low temperatures in stainless steel tanks with
130km north of Adelaide (and west of the Barossa), the Clare Valley sits within a high-altitude pocket granting the vineyards cool to cold nights with long, warm to hot summer days. This cooler climate grants thin-skinned (and indeed temperamental) grapes like rieslings a perfect climate in which to mature slowly without risk of mould during the harvest season. The resulting wines are perfumed, complex, softly flavoured yet powerful.
There are several sub-regions in the 35km stretch of valley, pocketed with varying soils, altitudes and climates. West-facing, high-altitude slopes benefit from drying afternoon sun in summer, producing some of the regions best vintages. The vines are planted from 400 to 500 metres (1,300 to 1,600 ft). The higher altitude, compared to other wine regions in South Australia, ensures cool nights even during the heat of summer allowing the fruit to ripen more evenly and slowly. Soil is a mix of red to brown-grey over basement rock.
History
The region was first planted in the 1840's by James Green, and later by Jesuit monks who fled Silesia seeking the freedom to follow their faith. The Sevenhill Cellars, which was first established by the monks, is still owned and operated by them today, producing wine for Catholic ceremonies.
Visiting
The favourable climate ensures riesling is the standout variety, and the Clare is regarded as the Australian home of this renowned white. Thankfully, the sub-regions also produce very high quality Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and superbly complex reds, so a visit to the region is recommended. With dozens of boutique wineries, there are plenty of cellar doors in a small area so you can sample the delicious varietal expressions of acclaimed wineries such as Tim Adams, Pikes, Taylors, just to name a few.
Principal red varieties are Cabernet sauvignon and
